Watering houseplants

How to water correctly + advice for popular houseplants

Watering is what most often determines whether houseplants thrive or struggle 🌿💧. Many people water by the calendar – but the best results come from watering based on need: light, temperature, pot, soil, and plant type. With a few simple habits, you can avoid the classic mistakes (especially watering too often) and get plants that grow steadily all year round.

In this guide, you’ll get a practical walkthrough of watering houseplants: how to get it right every time, which signs to look for, and specific watering advice for the most popular houseplants.

🌡️ What determines how often you need to water?

“How often” doesn’t have one single answer. Watering is driven by conditions that change throughout the year.

Light: more light = more growth = higher water use.
Temperature and air: warmth and dry air increase evaporation.
Pot type: terracotta dries faster than plastic and glazed pots.
Soil mix: airy soil dries faster; heavy soil holds water.
Root density: root-bound plants often dry out faster than plants with lots of soil in the pot.
Pot size: too large a pot = lots of wet soil around few roots = higher risk of overwatering.

In short: Water needs typically follow light and growth. When the plant is actively growing, it uses more water.

✅ The golden rule: water based on the soil’s moisture

The most reliable method is to check the soil – not the calendar.

Finger test: stick a finger 3–5 cm down. If it feels dry down there, it’s often time to water for many plants.
Weight test: lift the pot. Light = dry. Heavy = still moist.
Skewer test: a wooden skewer in the soil for 1 minute. If it comes out dry/light, you can water.

💡 Tip: Get to know 2–3 “reference plants”. When you can feel their dry-to-wet difference, the rest becomes much easier.

Haws 1 L plastic watering can - Dark Blue

🪴 How to water correctly (step-by-step)

1) Water thoroughly – not small splashes

For many houseplants, it’s better to water properly so the entire root ball becomes moist than to give a little and often.

Water until it runs out into the saucer.
Wait 5–10 minutes, then pour off excess water.

2) Ensure drainage (or make a safe setup)

Best: pot with a hole in the bottom + saucer.
Cover pot without a hole: use an inner pot with a hole inside the cover pot, and always pour off excess water.
Avoid: letting the plant sit in water permanently.

3) Choose the method based on the plant and soil

Top watering: standard for most plants.
Bottom watering: smart for plants that don’t like a wet top/soil surface, and if the soil has become “water-repellent”.
“Flushing” the soil: can be used occasionally to rinse out built-up salts (especially if you fertilize often).

⚠️ Important: Overwatering is most often about watering too frequently and too little air for the roots – not that you give “too much” on that one occasion.

🧩 Two very common problems and the solution

1) The soil doesn’t absorb water (hydrophobic soil)

If the water runs down along the pot edge and out immediately, the soil may have become so dry that it repels water.

Solution: bottom-water for 20–30 minutes (or place the pot in a tub), let it wick up, and let it drain.
Bonus: repeat after a couple of days if the root ball is still dry in the middle.

2) Cover pot without a drainage hole

This is one of the most common causes of rotten roots: water sits at the bottom without you seeing it.

Solution: inner pot with drainage + always pour off after 5–10 minutes.
If you can’t: water much less at a time and check weight/moisture extra often.

🔍 Signs of too much or too little water

Signs of overwatering

Yellow leaves (especially several at once), soft stems.
The soil feels constantly wet and heavy.
Fungus gnats, a musty smell, or dark spots at the soil surface.
Leaves droop “limply” even though the soil is wet.

Signs of underwatering

Droopy leaves that perk up after watering.
Dry/brown leaf tips and crispy leaves.
The soil pulls away from the pot edge and becomes very light.

In short: Droopy plant + wet soil = often root stress/overwatering. Droopy plant + dry soil = often underwatering.

📅 Watering throughout the year

Darker periods: most plants use less water – increase the interval.
Bright/growth periods: more waterings – especially close to windows with lots of light.
Heat from a radiator: pots dry faster, and leaf tips can dry out.

💡 Tip: When the light drops, water less often, but still water thoroughly when you do.

🚰 Water quality and practical hacks

Temperature: room-temperature water is gentle.
Lime/hard water: some plants (e.g., calathea) can get brown tips. If you often see it, filtered water can help.
Fertilizer: fertilize only during active growth, and never in bone-dry soil.
Soil: airy soil (e.g., with perlite/bark) makes it harder to overwater.

Xala Lungo watering can, 12 L - olive grey

🌿 Watering popular houseplants (specific advice)

Here you’ll get a simple rule of thumb per plant: how dry it may get before you water again.

Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)

Water when: the top has dried slightly, and the top 3–5 cm feels dry.
Typical mistake: soil too wet in low light.
Tip: airy soil and drainage make watering significantly easier.

Golden pothos / Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)

Water when: the top is dry and the pot feels lighter.
Hardy: forgives underwatering better than overwatering.
Signs: droopy leaves in drought, yellowing when too wet.

Philodendron (many types)

Water when: the top 2–4 cm is dry.
Tip: slightly on the dry side is better than constantly wet.

Snake plant (Sansevieria/Dracaena trifasciata)

Water when: the soil is dry almost all the way down.
Typical mistake: watering “like other plants” – it wants it dry.

ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

Water when: the soil is dry in large parts of the pot (often with long intervals).
Typical mistake: watering too frequently causes root problems.

Dracaena (e.g., marginata)

Water when: the top is dry and the pot is lighter, but don’t let it stay constantly wet.
Typical mistake: overwatering in low light.
Tip: brown tips often come from dry air or uneven watering.

Money tree (Pachira aquatica)

Water when: the top 3–5 cm is dry.
Typical mistake: soil staying wet for long periods causes leaf drop.
Tip: a stable rhythm is more important than big swings.

Rubber plant (Ficus elastica)

Water when: the top 3–5 cm is dry.
Signs: leaves may drop from stress (both too wet and too dry).
Tip: avoid big swings (bone-dry → soaked → bone-dry).

Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata)

Water when: the top is dry, but don’t let the entire pot stay bone-dry for long.
Typical mistake: standing water in the saucer/cover pot.
Tip: drainage + steady watering = fewer problems.

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

Water when: the top is dry, but avoid letting it dry out completely.
Signs: droops dramatically in drought, often perks up quickly after watering.
Tip: a good candidate for bottom watering.

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

Water when: the top is dry; tolerates a bit of drought thanks to tuberous roots.
Signs: brown tips can be due to dry air, water quality, or uneven watering.

Pilea / Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomioides)

Water when: the top 2–4 cm is dry.
Typical mistake: soil too wet leads to limp growth and yellow leaves.
Tip: even watering without keeping it constantly moist.

Palms (e.g., areca/kentia)

Water when: the top is dry, but don’t let the root ball dry out completely.
Typical mistake: dry air + uneven watering gives dry tips.
Tip: even moisture and good drainage are more important than large amounts.

Fern (e.g., Nephrolepis/Boston fern)

Water when: the surface begins to dry – it likes evenly moist soil.
Typical mistake: drying out quickly leads to dry leaves.
Tip: bottom watering can help, and it often thrives better away from dry heat.

Alocasia

Water when: the top has dried slightly (2–3 cm), but avoid letting it dry out completely.
Typical mistake: waterlogged soil in cooler/darker periods.
Tip: airy soil + drainage are extra important.

Calathea (Goeppertia)

Water like this: keep the soil evenly moist during active growth (not wet). When light/temperature drops, let the surface dry slightly before watering again.
Typical mistake: uneven watering + dry air causes curled leaves and brown tips.
Tip: filtered water can help if you often get brown tips.

Succulents and aloe

Water like this: water thoroughly, let it drain completely, and let the soil dry out noticeably between waterings.
Typical mistake: “a little and often” – it creates constant moisture around the roots.

Orchid (Phalaenopsis)

Water when: the roots start turning silvery gray and the bark feels almost dry – but avoid leaving the roots bone-dry for long.
Method: soak thoroughly (e.g., dip/flush), let drain completely, no standing water in the cover pot.
Typical mistake: water in the crown or constant moisture at the bottom.

Xala Lungo watering can, 12 L - slate grey

❓ Frequently asked questions

Why do my plants most often die after watering?

The most common reason is watering too frequently relative to light and soil, so the roots stay too wet for too long.

Is it better to water a little and often?

For many houseplants: no. It often only wets the top and increases the risk of an uneven root zone. Water thoroughly and less often instead.

Bottom watering or top watering?

Top watering suits most. Bottom watering is smart for plants that don’t like a wet top, or if the soil repels water.

How do I save an overwatered plant?

Stop watering, empty the saucer/cover pot, provide more light/air, and consider repotting into airy soil if the soil is constantly wet and the roots are stressed.